Last week I went to Joseph Phelps with my wife, sister-in-law, and friend. I had met someone who worked there at the Wines of Chile tasting through the Guild of Sommeliers, and I took her up on her offer of the Insignia Blending Seminar.

I couldn’t believe what horrible weather we were having in June in California. The drive up was a little stressful with all the wind and rain, and I am always always on edge about being late to things like this. Well, ok, everywhere, actually, but that is just me. The rain broke when we got to the Napa Valley, and everything was green and lush and beautiful.

I wasn’t sure what to expect. The recent tastings I have gone to have all been private and intimate, even somewhat informal, and I was expecting the same thing. But we were shown to a room just off the entryway to the winery and there were three people there already. I was a little disappointed, but immediately thought that I must be getting really jaded and/or snobby to expect exclusive treatment wherever I go through my industry connections. Spending time in Napa was beginning to have an effect on me, I guess. I introduced myself to the family of three sitting across the table of numerous empty glasses. They were visiting from Minnesota. A few more people arrived, and then we got started. There was an introductory video, which was a first for me, and then Jurg guided us through the wines.

First up, a 2009 Sauvignon Blanc from estate grown fruit in St. Helena. Honestly, it didn’t taste very much like a Sauvignon Blanc to me. Fermented and aged in oak, it was a bit more tame on the nose and softer. My first thought, as it always is, was if I could pick this out in a blind tasting. I don’t think I would be blind tasted on an oak aged SB, honestly, seems a bit unfair. I had to remind myself not to think less of the wine because it wasn’t a “classic” Sauv Blanc. I think it is interesting to note how I have so quickly assimilated a heirarchy of wine (that I somehow ascribe to the Court of Master Sommeliers) into my experiences tasting wine. It isn’t as if anyone is trying to make a Sancerre or New Zealand Sauv Blanc in Napa. I had to remind myself to take a few deep breaths again. It is these kind of preconceptions that actually get in your way of tasting, I think.

We seemed to be on some sort of schedule because the Sonoma Freestone Chardonnay was in my glass before I knew it. It was a bit too cold, but I used most of my pour up going back and forth between the SB and the Chard, so by the time it warmed up, I had very little left. I cadged some from my wife. Next was the Freestone Pinot Noir. For the very first time, all of the descriptors provided by the winery (there was a power point presentation on the screen behind Jurg) were in the wine. Sandalwood and Cola most notably. I have to say it was really delicious, and I think I should get up to Sonoma a little more often instead of being so Napa-centric (which was starting to have a subtle affect on my personality).

After that, we were confronted with six wines, one Merlot, one Petit Verdot, and four Cabernet Sauvignons from different areas in Napa. The same juice used to blend the Insignia (minus Malbec, which my wife told me later must be the “secret ingredient”). After tasting them all and trying to pick out which cabs were which blind with the help of a partner (I was two for two!) we started to mix. Using pipettes, we made our own blend in a glass and tasted it against the 2007 Insignia. I was really disappointed in my blend next to the Insignia, but it isn’t as if I am a professional. Also, the wines we were working with were unfinished in that they were not aged (or completely aged) in the barrel, so it wasn’t as if anyone was going to make a better wine. I would have more to report on this, I guess, had I been taking notes (and spitting more frequently), but it is a bit muddled in my brain as to how they make the Insignia as far as the sequence of blending and aging in oak. At any rate, there is a pretty profound difference made by aging in oak barrels.

Next, we got to taste the 2005 Backus Vineyard Cab side by side with the 07 Insignia. By this point I was very hungry and thought I shouldn’t be drinking much more. The Backus was so good, I accepted a second pour on my way out to the terrace and we watched the wind and rain from under the eaves.

Once we were out, our friend said, “what’s with the prices?” and I had to laugh a little because she isn’t in the wine industry. We didn’t buy any wine. Both the Insignia and Backus were $225 per bottle, and the Pinot and Chard were $55. Even with the discount that was so generously offered, we could have easily dropped $500 or more on wine. I forget how accustomed I am to witnessing people spend these amounts of money on wine while at work, and the winery makes it very easy to buy directly from them by framing the experience in terms of quality and exclusivity. I counted at least three mentions of the 2002 vintage Insignia being named wine of the year, and the video presentation was really selling the brand’s history, so to speak, with testimonies from such pillars of the valley as Mondavi and Heitz. The facility itself was elegant in a rustic sort of way. There were six other people at the tasting besides our group, and I am pretty sure they all bought a few cases between them.

I had a great time. And now, sitting down to write about it I realize the importance of taking notes. I should remind myself that I am going to these places for work, mostly, and as an aspiring Sommelier, I can use the practice as far as objectively evaluating a wine.

I am close to wrapping up my studies of the German wine regions. I am sure I will be continually adding bits of info and flash cards, but I will be focusing elsewhere next week. I don’t know why I started with Germany since we have so few German wines on our list at work. It makes it much more academic and I long to taste Rieslings from the Great Wall in the Mosel or taste Rheingau, Rheinhessen, and Ruwertal side by side by side. In that respect, it was a good choice in that it makes me hunger for more.

There are a few interesting developments coming up. First of all, in July, I will be heading to New Orleans for a cocktail convention. My regional VP asked me to go along with one other person from his region, so it is quite an honor. It will be an all expenses paid sort of a thing. I am not sure exactly what a cocktail convention entails, but I will have fun finding out.

Second, I have been selected to take part in the Napa Enrichment program in October through the Guild of Sommeliers. I can hardly believe I get to go. It will be four days of exploring the Napa Valley with Sommeliers, F & B Directors, and wine writers from all over the world. It looks like we will be doing some work at a few wineries both in and out of the vineyard as well as tasting a variety of wines from Napa.

Third, I am putting together a Bordeaux wine dinner (also in October) for my restaurant. I am trying to take as big of a role as possible in working with our wine warehouse rep and picking out wines, etc. Hard to say if it is really “my job” or not since I occupy a strange quasi-managerial role in our restaurant. I am an hourly employee but have a lot of responsibilities other hourly employees don’t have. It was my idea, at any rate, and I would like to see our Bordeaux section expand (it is pretty small and, dare I say, overlooked at the moment). Usually imports are a tough sell in our market with so many great wines from Napa so close in geographical proximity. I am thinking this will be a very interesting opportunity to educate both our staff and clientele. Hopefully, in the end, it will lead to more profitability in the long term.

So I have decided that after Germany, I will move on to Bordeaux and Napa as I would like to be fluent in both by the beginning of October. Bordeaux seems like it will be a big intellectual challenge. Napa, I am sure, will involve a lot of field trips. I am trying to set something up for the next week or two where I visit Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and Stags’ Leap Winery and do a comparison and contrast blog about it here. So watch for that….

Play well. Do good work. Keep in touch.

PFJ