Quote:
Originally Posted by dj_mercury
First minute, you call a raise with KTo in the bb on table 1, and 3bet 75s on table 4. Doesn't the fact that the suited one gapper plays better with deeper stacks make you lean towards 3betting KTo more often than 75s, you agree? Also when you call with KTo OOP, which type of flops textures that you miss are you usually going to fight by c/r and/or leading?
|
75s is fine for either option IMO. However, readless and because it's my first hand at the table, I'm leaning towards 3-betting being the best choice in order to either take the pot down pre-flop or see a flop with the initiative where I would expect an unknown would have to give me a decent amount of credit.
I generally will call KTo out of position for a few reasons. The lesser important one (not demeaning your question or anything, this is just how I'd rank the reasons in order of importance) is the one that you brought up. If you 3-bet a hand like KTo, especially only 100bb effective, it's fairly unlikely that any hands you dominate are going to call your raise. You might reply, well ok, then why don't I just 3-bet everything since so many hands are folding, sir? The reason is that I think I can get more value from a hand like KTo in this position than from the folding equity I'm getting pre-flop by 3-betting it, not to mention the hassle of trying to navigate sticky spots out of position in re-raised pots out of position with basically no reads. So 3-betting seems bad here, IMO. If I knew he was caling 40% of 3-bets in position and folding a lot of flops or something along those lines, then go for it.
The more important reason is that I want some Kx hands in my range that can stand the heat of 3 barrels on a Kxx board. If you only have discounting KQ (because you 3-bet it some of the time) and KJ, then it's pretty likely that when you check and call a continuation bet on a Kxx board that you rarely have a good hand. This means that your opponent can value bet you extremely thinly and bluff you off the best hand fairly easily if the board gets scary for a middling hand. I also like to have a balanced floating or check-raising range (depending on the opponent and stack sizes) and KTo fits nicely into a range of hands I'd be calling out of position like QJ KJ Q9s sometimes, things like that in order to be able to credibly represent hands when I'm bluffing and to get paid when I'm valuebetting after draws miss.
This is pretty long-winded, but basically just made you like 300 buy ins I think.