BobboFitos plays two tables on Party Poker of $5/$10 NL 6 max. For some of the start of the video rob plays and explains the different heads up structure on Party Poker (reverse blinds). Then the tables fill up and he plays six max explaining some key concepts!
Hey Rob,
I would love to hear more on your theory of the reverse blinds HU play.
(For example, you said you limp or openfold alot more. Would you for example also be openfolding tier 3 hands or only tier 4 (and worse) hands. And how much does your postflop play change because of the preflop play? And do you ever openraise the SB? or always limp-call/limp-fold/limp-raise? and so much more ;))
Hey Rob,
I would love to hear more on your theory of the reverse blinds HU play.
(For example, you said you limp or openfold alot more. Would you for example also be openfolding tier 3 hands or only tier 4 (and worse) hands. And how much does your postflop play change because of the preflop play? And do you ever openraise the SB? or always limp-call/limp-fold/limp-raise? and so much more ;))
I wouldnt open fold tier 3 or tier 4 until the dynamic of raising limps have been established, then i am for sure open mucking tier 4, and likely limping tier 3+, w/ a reverse nut air ratio for limpraising. (in a way forcing the blinds back to a spot of the conventional blind structure)
the small grouping therefore of hands im not "3betting" (really L/R) for value/bluff are the ones im going to limp/call.
so, the "control" of the match in this case is both the frequency and size of villains BB + button raise.
i don't think open raising the sb is an effective strategy in the longterm, but in the short term it's more optimal (someone asked me why i don't employ this in blind war, and it's much the same). basically, picking it up pre is more important than establishing the dynamic of just "how often opponent should fold".
it's important that you can't play ATC in the reverse spot OOP, obviously, and the easiest time to spot a fishy opponent is one that is open raising, open limping, or any combination, that is >50% VPIP. (In fact, >40% is likely incorrect)
In general this blind structure leads to less action which makes it less overall appealing good player vs good player, but makes it possible to DESTROY a bad player much easier. Worth noting many good players play the structure in such a way that they turn into a bad player, as well.
In position, preflop is dictated by your opponent, obviously, but typically I would auto raise limps 100% (until a specific l/r dynamic has been established, then we can go a different route - similar to getting 3bet when they're OOP but this time you have the option of just seeing a flop) and if an opponent raises I would not fold my hand, i would either 3bet or call, and on the flop the way you approach it is the same way if you're raising 100% of hands, ignore the fact they have impetus, and pretend they're just donking into you alot. This way the hand range of when they open raise (perhaps top 30-40% of hands) vs your hand range (perhaps 100%) should make the adjustments "easy" for you.
Thanks for more insight into the HU :)
I do keep having the same problems you seem to have, which is that when I'm playing HU the table seems to fill up quite fast (this is 400nl though), and there are no HU tables yet. So unfortunately I have little chance to practice it. I guess I got to find another site which has this structure.
About what you said about SB vs BB play is exactly what I first thought off when you said you were going to be limping alot in the SB (as in why don't you do it in 6max), something I think almost no regular does in a 6max game in blindbattles. But let's say a game is 3-(or 4-)handed, would you ever consider switching to a SB-limp strategy?
Anyway liked the video alot and was fun to see a video on Party again :)
Thanks for more insight into the HU :)
I do keep having the same problems you seem to have, which is that when I'm playing HU the table seems to fill up quite fast (this is 400nl though), and there are no HU tables yet. So unfortunately I have little chance to practice it. I guess I got to find another site which has this structure.
About what you said about SB vs BB play is exactly what I first thought off when you said you were going to be limping alot in the SB (as in why don't you do it in 6max), something I think almost no regular does in a 6max game in blindbattles. But let's say a game is 3-(or 4-)handed, would you ever consider switching to a SB-limp strategy?
Anyway liked the video alot and was fun to see a video on Party again :)
Robin - glad you liked it =)
I would certainly consider switching it up playing 3handed or so. In fact, live, I do occasionally revert to this strategy (when deep/SH/there is going to be more 'meta' elements that allow me to deviate from my usual 3x bb open)
Like the video so far, even tho I would prop shove the QT hand over the top of Martin. I think its clear that he "likes" his hand, but not THAT much. Calling the extra $200, then fold if he goes all in on turn seems bad?
Would love more input on this thread. The more you guys ask, the better discussion that will ensue.
Can you PLEASE give a list of types 1-5 boards and teir hands? This would help me immensely.
Sure. I don't think I've done this before, but:
Type / Why / Example
1 - Very dry, essentially no draws to worry about - A 7 2r
2 - Fairly dry, some straight draws - K T 2r
3 - Most common board, 2 flush on board - Q 7 4 w/ 2 diamonds
4 - Fairly wet, both flush and straight draws present - Q J 7 w/ 2 diamonds
5 - Very wet, every turn is potentially bad - T 8 7 w/ 2 diamonds
Tier / Why / Example
1 - Premium hand - KK, AJs
2 - Sub-premium but profitable hand - TJs, 97s
3 - Profitable but marginal hand - QJo, ATo
4 - Marginal but situationally profitable - Q7s, J2s
5 - Unprofitable barring ATC spot - 94o, K2o
Like the video so far, even tho I would prop shove the QT hand over the top of Martin. I think its clear that he "likes" his hand, but not THAT much. Calling the extra $200, then fold if he goes all in on turn seems bad?
and YES to PT review video.
ps: what about Sweden?=D
QT: I think you're right. Just was a weird hand.
PT: I am going to do this for the video after next, since my next one will likely be one w/ Isura.
Sweden: Great country!
Hey BobboFitos,
You mention in the video that you don't like 3-betting small pairs (I think someone 3-bets 44 in the video). Can you elaborate on this, please?
They 3bet 55, actually. No more elaboration is necessary other than ~1 in 7 times you have a lock, other 6 out of 7 you're in a very rough tough spot when faced with resistance. In a single raised pot it's easier to play these hands given you make the nuts more often then say QTo, since you're all in more often in the double raised pot making the nuts isn't as important... Essentially if I could chose between QJo or 44 in a raised pot, 44 always wins but in a reraised pot, QJo wins.
Really funky how Martin was playing on 5/10. I played him a lot on 2/4 and he never folded to 3bets and had a vpip like 35 over a fairly big sample size. postflop he was more like a station also. great video would like to see more on party from you :)
I remember you started a thread about flatting 4-bets. The QTdd hand seems like an ideal spot against eurodollar. Betting went 50-175-325 with 1000 stacks.
Good video, and you're right about party being more tricky/aggro. The donks are generally more aggro
Hey, im running behind with the videos and only got around to watching this today.
Rob, early on you have KT on a K74 2 flush board. You cbet IP and get c/minraised by a 400bb stack. You mention that, of course, you are looking to stack off (which i agree with) but you need to decide whether to shove now or call and get it in on the turn.
You end up shoving but dont really explain why...
Generally what should a poker player be thinking about when deciding whether to shove or call?
Hey, im running behind with the videos and only got around to watching this today.
Rob, early on you have KT on a K74 2 flush board. You cbet IP and get c/minraised by a 400bb stack. You mention that, of course, you are looking to stack off (which i agree with) but you need to decide whether to shove now or call and get it in on the turn.
You end up shoving but dont really explain why...
Generally what should a poker player be thinking about when deciding whether to shove or call?
Here's what you should be thinking about:
1. Will they bet the turn?
2. Are there some turns I'd fold?
3. Will they fold if I shove (or reraise small) now?
In essence, the more they are pure bluffing but aggressive and we have a strong hand that doesn't care what turns (so 1. yes 2. no 3. yes) ie. 44 on a K 7 4, you want to just call.
The less they are pure bluffing and passive and we have a weaker hand where we could make an incorrect fold on the turn (so 1. no 2. yes 3. no) ie. my KT, you want to just get it in.
