In this video Dan plays 4 tables of $25 NL 6-Max on Party Poker. Dan discusses tailoring 3-betting ranges to suit your opponent's PF tendencies, balancing c-bet strategies based on board texture and the importance of the 'call 1', 'call 2', 'call 3' ranges of your opponents on different boards.
I think that when you're doing a live vid and you have a bit of trouble with the multitasking you should at least play on a site on which you are more familiar with the software. It was hard keeping my attention because early on in the vid you were all over the place.
Other than that, you said some interesting things and I'm looking forward to your next (hopefully higher stakes) video.
Enjoyed the video. I was wondering if you could go into more detail about the reverse equity spot, I believe it was in the 44 hand early in the video. Would actually like to see more videos at these stakes.
Hey just wanted to say great video and keep the 25NL videos coming. Maybe even if you have time throw in a 10NL 4 table video. I know there are a lot of complaints about "why not 200NL???" but seriously your one of the few who makes smaller stakes videos. There's plenty of 100nl 200NL + videos for the other guys but you have what like 4/6 of the videos below 50 NL? Great job,
Enjoyed the video. I was wondering if you could go into more detail about the reverse equity spot, I believe it was in the 44 hand early in the video. Would actually like to see more videos at these stakes.
Results: $3.50 Pot BB showed and WON $6.31 (+$5.06 NET)
I think I mention something about it being a reverse equity spot. It's basically a spot on the flop where you may consider yourself to be slightly ahead at that point in the hand (in terms of raw ranges), but if you are ahead you're only slightly ahead, and if you're behind then you're crushed. (Slightly ahead, way behind). In addition, with cards to come on the turn and river, there is a danger that VS someone good (not even good these days, just standard) they'll be cbetting the flop with their bluffs, then barreling the turn and/or river when broadways come, forcing us to fold, so we don't EVEN always get to see showdown the times that we are ahead.
To avoid decimating your red line, fold the flop in these spots. OR, soul read him if you must and call all three streets. Probably not the latter without a sick read..... just don't call flop, call turn, fold river. HORRIBLE.
In terms of what stakes videos I make, I've had probably an equal number of requests for all stakes. My recent micro run of vids is really a reflection of my being completely doomswitched since joining leggo, which affected my confidence to make vids at 400nl+....
I've been doing really well again though the last 6 weeks or so though, so expect a 400nl vid soon. That is NOT to say I'll only make smaller stakes vids when I'm playing badly though, just that midstakes comes back into my range, if you will.
Thanks for making this video, I found it extremely helpful.
Three-barrel bluffing is something that I haven't been able to do profitably thus far. Could you explain in a bit more detail what flops work well, what type of opponent you want to try it with, what turn/river cards make you abort, and whether position matters? Thanks!
Thanks for making this video, I found it extremely helpful.
Three-barrel bluffing is something that I haven't been able to do profitably thus far. Could you explain in a bit more detail what flops work well, what type of opponent you want to try it with, what turn/river cards make you abort, and whether position matters? Thanks!
Ok......
Well I'll assume we're playing regulars or semi-regulars. If we're playing complete fish who literally never fold a pair, then I don't need to tell you how to beat them (and it's not through 3 barreling air any of the time).
Basically for 3 barreling, you should be identifying the boards and the range of hands where villain is likely to call 1, call 2, and call 3.
For example, you raise, get one caller, and the flop comes 865ss. On this board, if he called once, then I wouldn't expect his call 2 range to differ much from his call 1 range. The reason being that a huge swathe of his hand range is made up of pair+GS, pair+OESD, flush draws, top pair. Thus, because his call 2 range is the same as his call 1 range, then in a vacuum we wouldn't show a profit with just a double barrel.
What you should realise though is that his call 3 range is going to be a much slimmed down version of his call 2 range. ie, should the board run out J Q (ideally), or K, T, then all his 76, 89, 75, 77 etc that peeled the flop and turn (peeled because there's another card to come and can improve) no longer like the look of their hand. Thus, a 3 barrel would be profitable in this spot.
That's NOT to say you should always 2 barrel on these boards, just that if you do then you should almost always be throwing in river barrel as well.
Cards that would make me abort on the above would usually be a board pairing card, or one that helps his perceived range. So, in the example above, I'm probably shutting down on any 9,8,7,6,5,4. Flush cards are interesting to 3 barrel though when we have a read that our opponent plays flush draws aggressively, ie if he calls then we rule out the flush draw and the board seems more and more scary to villain with 77 or whatever.
Giving up on certain cards helps control our frequencies of course. So, we're not 3 barreling every time, but randomising the times we do based on the turn and river cards.
Does position matter? Always, of course, but I would tentatively say it matters less in these spots if our plan from the outset on the flop is to 3 barrel. It's worth noting that a villain's typical flop and turn calling range can often be weaker IP than OOP given they'll have a ton more random floats and other marginal peels.
What opponents? Well, ones who can fold of course. Also, we should ideally have a rough idea of how they play certain hands most of the time. Example, I know that 90% of regs at 400nl would always raise the above flop with a set or 2 pair, so, when they flat the flop and turn I can easily rule out super strong hands. Really passive fish regs at the micros you can't always make this assumption. Look for timing tells as well, snap calls on drawy boards are gold to keep firing.......
I plug this book a lot, but if you have $750 I'd really suggest Bobbofitos's book...... cbetting strategies based on board texture and hand type makes up a decent chunk of it.
Send me some HHs if you like, or post them here. dan
Wow, thanks for taking the time to write this great response. Every part of it makes sense. I'm going to try my best to put it to work.
I hadn't heard of the book, but if my life looks like it's going to allow me the time to mount an attempt at becoming decent at poker, I'll buy it. I would probably be the lowest limit player to ever pick it up, but I guess that would mean I have the most to gain from it :)
Results: $3.50 Pot BB showed and WON $6.31 (+$5.06 NET)
I think I mention something about it being a reverse equity spot. It's basically a spot on the flop where you may consider yourself to be slightly ahead at that point in the hand (in terms of raw ranges), but if you are ahead you're only slightly ahead, and if you're behind then you're crushed. (Slightly ahead, way behind). In addition, with cards to come on the turn and river, there is a danger that VS someone good (not even good these days, just standard) they'll be cbetting the flop with their bluffs, then barreling the turn and/or river when broadways come, forcing us to fold, so we don't EVEN always get to see showdown the times that we are ahead.
To avoid decimating your red line, fold the flop in these spots. OR, soul read him if you must and call all three streets. Probably not the latter without a sick read..... just don't call flop, call turn, fold river. HORRIBLE.
4
dealt to Hero (SB)
(2 Players)